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[布洛灣聽雨]聽雨

發(fā)布時間:2020-03-11 來源: 人生感悟 點擊:

  幾乎是一夜未眠。   入住布洛灣酒店的時候,已經(jīng)是晚上八點多了。西伯利亞冷空氣越過臺灣海峽,使花蓮地區(qū)的最低溫度驟然降至罕見的10度左右。空里飄著小雨,淅淅瀝瀝的。沒有風(fēng)的呼嘯,也沒有鳥的鳴叫,這就更使此時布洛灣的夜幕顯得格外深沉而凝重。
  別具一格的布洛灣酒店就坐落在太魯閣國家森林公園懷抱的深處。
  酒店不大,但是精致如雕。一律木制結(jié)構(gòu)的廳堂里,擺滿了許許多多各種各樣表現(xiàn)不老族歷史的圖騰雕刻物件,或臉譜,或射獵狀,或男耕女織造型,表情各異,豐富至極。這些林林總總的“藝術(shù)”,有的僅僅是裝飾品,有的則可以對客人出售而為紀念。也許是不大的廳堂里因為有了這種厚重歷史的裝點,從而給人一種深邃而闊大的感覺。
  其實,無論是從空中還是在陸地審視布洛灣酒店,給人的印象都是太闊大太深邃太壯觀太美麗了。數(shù)百米高的大山三面而就,如端坐的一位健壯漢子將一個嬌小女孩般的布洛灣酒店攬在懷里。環(huán)立的大山如劈似削,直刺蒼穹,豐富的物種植被郁郁蔥蔥,嚴嚴實實地覆蓋著怪石林立的山體,同時也為人類釀造著天然氧吧,讓至此的人們驚訝不已感嘆不已興奮不已。
  布洛灣酒店的設(shè)計不是一般的獨具匠心。別致的布洛灣雖然只有幾十個住人的客房,卻也是一律的木制結(jié)構(gòu)。來人順著三五級的臺階而上,便見一溜擺開的平房。房間雖然不怎么寬敞,但是也如人意。沒有床,干凈的木板地上就是褥被茶幾什么的,給人一種不錯的舒適的感覺。許是由于疲憊或者冬雨的緣故,布洛灣的人們大都早早地就有了些睡意誕生。
  卻是難眠的。
  靜靜地仰望著小木屋,聽著小雨急一陣慢一陣地降落,聽著大珠小珠落玉盤,就有了許多別樣的畫面⋯⋯
  1986年成立的太魯閣國家公園是臺灣惟一入選“世界文化遺產(chǎn)”的自然景觀。整座公園以太魯閣峽谷、立霧溪流域以及東西橫貫公路東段沿線為主體,并且涵蓋南湖中奇萊連峰、合歡山群、太魯閣大山、清水斷崖、三棧溪流域。應(yīng)該說,這個范圍還是比較大的,東起于清水,西迄合歡西峰,南及奇萊連峰、北至南湖大山,總面積達到了九萬兩千多公頃。
  許多人都有這樣的感覺,秀麗的太魯閣國家公園無疑為寶島的秀麗增添了一筆濃濃的光彩。
  人間仙境般的太魯閣國家公園是以高山和峽谷為主要地形特色的,其中立霧溪河谷景色極秀,河澗怪石如磨,似人非人,似物非物,而河水則清澈得如藍凝滯。兩岸又都是由大理石構(gòu)成的巖層,年代久遠,石層豐富,令人驚訝不已,于是人們又稱立霧溪河谷為大理石峽谷。
  而國家公園內(nèi)的游憩資源大都分布在中橫公路東段沿線,諸如長春祠、太魯閣峽谷、九曲洞、清水斷崖以及景色清新的娃娃谷,如今都已經(jīng)是令人流連忘返的著名風(fēng)景。
  當然,太魯閣國家公園的誘人之處還在于它那原始森林的面積廣闊和生態(tài)環(huán)境的異樣復(fù)雜。太多太多的稀有生態(tài)資源,比如山椒魚啦,莫氏樹蛙啦,還有臺灣黑熊、臺灣獼猴豬、臺灣穿山甲、山羌、水鹿、長鬃山羊什么的,細數(shù)起來,不下百種。而植物則如云杉林、臺灣蘆竹、冷杉林、箭竹草原、玉山圓柏及鐵杉林等極其珍奇的植物,更是公園的“美女成員”。
  太魯閣公園的植被之所以豐厚而出眾,可能與這里的氣候有著密切的關(guān)系。多雨的天滋潤著喜雨的太魯閣。
  雨季里沐浴的太魯閣是十分秀麗的。
  夜,已經(jīng)越來越深。淅淅瀝瀝的小雨卻突然變得急驟了起來。沒有雷聲,也沒有閃電,接近規(guī)則的乒乓乒乓的雨點用力擊打著屋頂,猶如金戈鐵馬由遠而近奔馳而來。
  其實,20世紀60年代修筑的橫貫東西公路就是這種金戈鐵馬的壯麗場面。10萬名官兵的汗水拋灑及至200多名生命的捐獻才有了現(xiàn)在的通途,才有了壯觀的九曲洞。當然也隨之有了現(xiàn)在的長春祠,以及在此安息的靈魂。臺灣人民不會忘記他們,九曲洞不會忘記他們,大山也不會忘記他們,太魯閣更不會忘記他們。也許此地此時的風(fēng)里雨里就有他們的吟唱之音。對這種聲音,布洛灣是熟悉的,不老族的圖騰是熟悉的,到過布洛灣的人們是熟悉的,因為它給人的印象太深太深⋯⋯
  
  I stayed up almost all the night.
  It was after eight o’clock in the evening when I checked in at Buluowan Hotel in Taiwan. The cold air from Siberia crossed the Taiwan Strait and abruptly reduced the temperature of Huanlian to 10 degrees centigrade. Light in the air made people feel depressed. Without the wind howling and the birds chirping, the night of Buluowan seemed to be very somber.
  The characteristic Buluowan Hotel is located deep within the Taroko National Park.
  Despite being not big, the hotel is elegant. In the wooden-structure lobby, there are displayed various carved totem articles showcasing the history of the Bulao Nationality. The facial makeup, the hunting scenes, and the men tilling and women weaving, have diversified expressions, which are not only used for decoration, but also for sale to the guests as souvenirs. Due to the historical style decoration, the small lobby makes you feel it is deep and vast.
  Looking at Buluowan Hotel either from the air or the land, one will feel it magnificent and beautiful. The hotel is surrounded by mountains on three sides, looking like a little gird embraced by a strong man. The lofty mountains are covered by dense plants, which also provide a natural oxygen bar for people and makes the tourists here excited.
  The design of Buluowan Hotel is unique. The wooden-structure hotel rooms can only accommodate a few dozen guests. In the room, there are no beds. The quilts and mattresses on the floor make you feel very comfortable.
  The Taroko National Park established in 1986 is the only nature site in Taiwan that has been chosen as a World Natural Heritage by UNESCO. The entire park is made up of the Taroko Canyon, Liwu Brook and the eastern section of the east-west highway.
  The rich plants covering the Taroko National Park are closely related to the rainy climate here.
  In the 1960s, 100,000 military officers and soldiers devoted themselves to construction of the east-west highway, more than 200 of whom lost their lives in the tough construction work. So the Taiwan people will never forget them, the local scenic sites will never forget them, the mountains will never forget them and the Taroko National Park will never forget them.
  

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